Story & Photographs by Andrew P. Smith

Deep in Jamaica’s Blue Mountains is a valley with such a vast reservoir of natural and cultural wealth, It’s hard to believe that such riches are found in an area of only about 20 miles. Yet this is the case of Portland’s Buff Bay Valley, which extends from the town of Buff Bay on the north coast, to the montane forests of Section at over 4,000ft above sea level. Christened “The Heritage Corridor of the Blue Mountains”, it is poised to be Jamaica’s premier eco-tourism location, where green travellers can choose to explore, immerse and educate themselves about the island’s diverse and abundant natural and cultural heritage. A view of the Grand Ridge of the Blue Mountains from Bangor Ridge This has all come about thanks to a project initiated by the Inter-American Institute for Co-operation in Agriculture (IICA) with funding from the European Union/Government of Jamaica Banana Support Rural Diversification Programme. The will create income and employment opportunities by promoting new economic agricultural and non-agricultural activities for farmers, and farm workers and their communities”. Valley Vistas Whether you enter the Buff Bay River Valley from Section or Buff Bay, you’re struck by the landscape. Dominated by the extensive mountain ranges through which the Buff Bay River and its tributaries flow, it is a living laboratory that showcases Jamaica’s geological past and the resulting landscapes. At Cascade’s One Drop Falls at the upper valley, take note of the brownish-reddish shale rock, which dates back to the island’s origin as an underwater volcano, nearly 120 million years ago. Contrast this with the river banks at Quao’s village at Charles Town or the Nyam Jam rest stop at Rose Hill at the lower valley, and you will notice that the limestone rocks at the far bank come out of the water at a strange angle. It is believed that their appearance is evidence of the folding of Jamaica’s surface, which gave birth to the mountains that surround the valley. These mountains have provided shelter for plants and animals for millions of years. The forests were originally home to many plants and trees that provided protection and sustenance, not just for the animals that live there, but also for humans, primarily the Maroons who took refuge in the forests and fought the British colonial rulers. You can find out about this struggle at the museum in Charles Town in the lower valley.

Susie Osavio picking coffee berries at Bangor Ridge

Bird watchers will be kept busy identifying the 90 species of birds found in the valley, and die-hard enthusiasts will love spending time in the upper valley near Hardwar Gap, where 23 endemic bird species can be found. These include the rare Jamaican Blackbird; the Jamaican Oriole; and Jamaica’s national bird, the red-billed streamer-tail hummingbird. Also present during winter months are migrant birds from North America such as the black-throated blue warbler.

Off the Beaten Track
Although it is very tempting to enjoy the pleasures of the Buff Bay River Valley by driving between Buff Bay and Section, visitors will discover more by using pedi-power along the road, hiking on the many trails in the mountains, and immersing themselves in the streams and rivers that give the valley its name. A word of warning,, especially if you are entering the valley from Kingston: due to a combination of geology, heavy rains and poor farming practices, the road has been cut off by two landslides at the upper valley at Section and near Cascade. To negotiate your way over the access roads constructed by the community members, four-wheel drive vehicles are recommended. Once you have reached Cascade Square, it’s relatively smooth driving all the way to Buff Bay.

If you do opt to drive, there are a number of spots that you should visit. Section is in the midst of the Blue Mountain coffee-farming region, and here visitors can learn about the entire process of coffee production—from the berry to the brew. After negotiating the road cut-offs, the next stop is a swim at the plunge pool at the foot of One Drop Waterfall at Cascade, to wash away your troubles. The sight of the 200-ft drop is awe-inspiring, especially during the rainy season.

Heritage and History
From Cascade, you will drive along winding roads, through countless villages such as Birnamwood, Lovely Grove, Silver Hill, Galloway and Mullet Hall, which are named after 18th and 19th century coffee plantations. Ruins of these plantations are still visible at Birnamwood, Lancaster and Galloway. However, most are not on the main road, so it is advisable that you ask for directions. A wilderness campsite is being established at Lancasterand from there a hiking trail to Holywell offers great opportunity to discover the nocturnal fauna, of the valley, including owls, luminescent insects and moths. The river here is also a great place to swim.

Visitors will also encounter villages with Francophone names such as Avocat and Balcarres. These names date back to over 200 years ago, after the Haitian revolution, when coffee farmers arrived in the Buff Bay Valley and other areas of Jamaica, to establish coffee plantations. Pride among these is the 18th century Orangevale coffee ruins. The best way to get there is by checking Colonel Frank Lumsden of the Charles Town Maroons who will arrange for local guides to take you on the half-day hike into the mountains to discover ruins, which are well preserved. Colonel Lumsden can also arrange for you to take a two-hour walk up to Sambo Hill, a historical Maroon trail along which the Maroons fought against the British. If you do not have the energy to hike these trails, spend time at the museum and herb garden at Charles Town investigating the link between the Maroons and important forest plants. Here you will discover the healing properties of Leaf of Life, Purple Virvine, Spirit Weed and Jack in the Bush, among others.

Charles Town is five minutes from the north coast town of Buff Bay, the capital of the former parish of St. George. Evidence of its importance remains in the Buff Bay Court House, which was built in the early 19th century, and St. George’s Anglican Church, which dates back to 1815.

So whether you choose to spend a few hours or a few days in the Buff Bay Valley it will be time well spent. Your memories will confirm that it might not be easy being a green traveller, but the extra effort is definitely worth it.

Colonel Frank Lumsden, of the Charles Town Maroons, Blowing the Abeng

Farmer Franklyn Dallas, from Birnamwood

Male Black Throated Blue Warbler

Ruins of the Birnamwood

Reservations to explore the Buff Bay Valley can be made with the Corridor Management Council (CMC), based at the travel halt at Rose Hill. Contact Everald Taylor, president of the CMC at:
Telephone: (876) 457-0634